Why ‘masculine notes’ aren’t masculine: the origins of modern perfume stereotypes
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Time to read 3 min
Why ‘masculine notes’ aren’t masculine: the origins of modern perfume stereotypes
For centuries, scent has been a way to express feelings, identity, and individuality. Yet there was a period when scents were worn as they were prescribed, within rigid boxes of ‘masculine’ and ‘feminine’. Today, this image is shifting. Modern perfumers and niche perfume houses like mmoire are showing that scent is universal and free from labels.
Historical origin of scent without gender identification
Up until the 20th century there was no such thing as gendered fragrance. Light florals were worn by men and smokey woods were worn by women; this was completely normal. Perfume at this time was something for the upper class only. It was a sign of elegance and status. King Louis XIV was notoriously known to mostly wear floral perfumes with notes like jasmine, tuberose, and orange blossom, something that was in those days completely conventional for a man of his status (The Perfume Society, n.d.; Palace of Versailles, n.d.).
With industrialization and mass production, this all changed. Fragrance started to be more advertised and became more accessible to the masses. It started to be labeled as ‘for men’ or ‘for women’ simply as a marketing technique to boost profits. Scents like wood, leather, and musk were labeled as masculine, while floral, sweet, and powdery notes were labeled as feminine (Lindqvist, 2013).
Why certain notes are considered “masculine” or “feminine”
Psychologically, early conditioning to societal expectations plays a huge role in the way notes are gendered. From a young age, men and women are exposed to different colors, scents, and products that they are “supposed” to like based on their gender (Lindqvist, 2012). This later influences their perception of what is expected from a masculine or feminine scent, color, or product.
Looking at mainstream perfume, the ads were and honestly still are extremely stereotyped. Perfumes for men are often presented as dark and sturdy, featuring dominant, “alpha” males in the advertisements: “Buy this perfume and you will become this.” Feminine fragrances, on the other hand, are usually packaged in pink or pastel colors, often with flowers or a bow. The women in these ads are portrayed as seductive, often scantily dressed.
Because of this, the perception of a scent is more closely linked to societal expectations than to the scent itself. Marketing has further strengthened this mechanism. Explicitly labeling perfumes as “for men” or “for women” enabled perfume brands to segment their products and stimulate sales. In reality, notes are universal and can be worn by anyone, regardless of gender. Understanding that the societal notions of “masculine” and “feminine” are mostly cultural and marketing-driven helps consumers recognize that scent is ultimately a personal expression. There is no such thing as gender in fragrance.
The shift to unisex/gender-neutral fragrances
As a reaction to the century-long stereotyping of scent and perfume, there has been a clear shift in the last decades towards unisex- and gender-neutral fragrances. Where wood, leather, and musk notes were traditionally viewed as ‘masculine’ and floral, powdery, or sweet notes as ‘feminine’, modern perfumers and niche perfume brands are challenging these conventions by creating fragrances that exist independently of those gendered labels. At mmoire, this is not even a question; we believe perfume doesn’t need labels, and our scents are for everyone who enjoys the composition, regardless of gender.
This shift has multiple implications. Firstly, it changes the perception of the scent itself: consumers are encouraged to experiment and try out fragrances, making decisions based on their own preferences instead of what society and advertisements expect of them. Secondly, it opens the door for more complex and refined compositions. Perfumers can make combinations of ingredients that were formerly considered ‘contradictory’ or ‘tied to a specific gender’, like lavender with leather (Sur Arize) or tonka bean with cedar wood (Ether Woods), creating scents that are unique and versatile.
For a lot of niche brands, this correlates to perfume becoming a more intimate and exclusive experience. By focusing on unisex- and niche scents, the idea of mass production and stereotyping in scents is disrupted. Every fragrance becomes a work of art that invites personal interpretation and offers the wearer freedom without restrictions.
Eventually, the rise of unisex- and gender-neutral scents shows that scent is a universal language: one that can express feelings, memories, and identity without being stuck to one label. Where traditional brands have long assigned specific notes to men or women, it is now the personal experience, creativity, and uniqueness of each fragrance that takes center stage, as reflected in the approach of niche houses such as mmoire.
Lindqvist (2012). Perfume Preferences and How They Are Related to Commercial Gender Classifications of Fragrances.
Retrieved November 12, 2025, from
https://portal.research.lu.se/en/publications/perfume-preferences-and-how-they-are-related-to-commercial-gender
Lindqvist (2013). Gendered Product Categorization: Consumer Responses to Gendered and Ungendered Fragrances.
Retrieved November 12, 2025, from
https://portal.research.lu.se/en/publications/gendered-product-categorization-consumer-responses-to-gendered-an
Palace of Versailles & The Perfume Society (n.d.). Perfume at the Court of Louis XIV.
Retrieved November 12, 2025, from
https://artsandculture.google.com/story/perfume-at-the-court-of-louis-xiv-the-palace-of-versailles/5QURWc1N8I7cKQ
